//Day 2 /13-03-22 /Passau-Linz

Although day 2, mentally we should considered it as day 1 as it is the first day I will cycle from point A to B. Point A being Passau, Point B: Linz. On the map around 94 km apart. Not to far of a distance but also enough distance to test the bike and my physical condition. 

The weather was cooperating with delivering a blue sky and expected 13 degrees around 11 o’clock. After breakfast I loaded the black horse (the name a gave today to my bicycle) and started cycling east. The Passau tourist department had done an efficient lobbying job with EuroVelo and as result the first 30 minutes cycling turned to be a sightseeing tour through the nice old city centre of Passau. I crossed the bridge over the Danube following it’s left bank. You can also cycle on the right bank, which I planned to do  later in the day by taking a ferry.

The cycling path I plan to follow the next couple of days is called the EuroVelo 6 and follows the Danube. It is one of the most known EuroVelo cycling routes. One of the most developed stretches of the route is between Passau and Vienna, attracting from April onwards a lot cyclists generating a significant stream of income for the local tourist economy. The reason why this route is so loved ? It’s flat, follows the beautiful Danube and passes a some interesting sites (Passau, Linz, Melk, Vienna,…). Perfect for 50+ old cyclists with enough cash to spice the local tourist industry…..

I’m cycling along my left bank, enjoying the good weather and the Disney scenery. Limited to almost no  people on the road. Shops are closed, pubs are closed. This will be unfortunate the case until Linz. As result my lunch of today existed out of some shokokeks which I bought yesterday before boarding the train. Silly of me to forget to foresee food and a good lesson that shops are closed on Sunday in Austria. The pubs will reopen in April to supply the bear bellies of the 50+ year old cyclists….Anyway I can lose some weight myself….

The other miscalculation is that the ferries over the Danube only operate from April onwards. As result I’m not able to cross the Danube at the foreseen place and I need to cycle  10 km back to use a bridge. No problem, the weather is nice, I have eaten chocokeks and the wind is in my back. Regarding  the wind ;  although the weather is sunny with bluest of skies there are stretches with a strong headwind but nothing which Black Horse can not manage. So I return, cross the bridge and start pedalling the right (literally and figuratively) bank.

I continue my route, still limited people to be seen. If you ever plan to cycle along the Danube I advise to cycle the left bank as it receives all sun. The right bank does not, as result the temperature is at least 5 degrees lower. In combination with the headwind it feels 10 degrees colder. But this does no spoil the pleasure.I enjoy the the beautiful views, the silence and thinking about nothing (Jo I will try not to fall). This continues to be my happy state of mind until the road is blocked by a white wall of about 5 meters high. I’m not able to continue my route again. It seems that some rocks have collapsed and the road is no longer useable (Later I hear that the road will be fixed before April - imagine bear bellies crawling over the wall…). The only option is to return to nearest crossing  15 K back. Bringing my detour total on 25K today (not bad for a first day). At the crossing a girl explains to me that I need to go out of the valley and climb the hills to a road  which will bring me back to the Danube. So I start climbing the 525 meters with an average percentage of 10%. Although Black Horse is electrified both the horse and rider are happy to arrive at the top. We are even more happy that a cycle shop is open which seems to serve some drinks. This is not the case, it is to say that they don’t sell drinks but the owner offers me an alcohol free beer anyway. Great guy.

The other pleasant results are  that I need to cycle back down again to the Danube in the valley and that I can enjoy some beautiful views of the small hills siding the Danube. After 15 K cycling down I’m back at the Danube and continue my way. The headwind has become stronger and there are limited to no hills/tree to provide shelter. I continue my road as a real “Flandrien” until the battery of Black Horse dies and need to be replaced. Black Horse has done 110K including the climb and managing some strong head wind. Good boy.Once given food to the horse we ride further into the sunset…….

15 k before Linz the Austrians build a power plan on the Danube which I cross to continue my route on the left bank. The rest of the route is uneventful as I need to follow a cycling path beside a busy road. Entering  Linz via that big / busy road brought memories back to my Santiago adventure where  entering big cities was almost always via big/busy /industry laden roads…

It’s 2 hours later then expected and I have cycled 130 K, 35 K more then foreseen, climbed a steep hill, enjoyed the sun, mastered the headwind as a real Flandrien,…..Black Horse and the cowboy are tired and happy to find the hotel. Linz seems to be a nice city but Sunday’s do not show her best side. Most shops, pubs and restaurants are closed. After some searching I eventually decide to enter a kind of premium McDonald’s and order a chicken burger which turns out to be really good. My other option was an all you can eat Chinese which served a Sunday special at 9,95 Euro….The only people in that restaurant was the owner which was sitting bored looking outside though the (very) stained window. 

Walking back to the hotel I notice that the city is plastered with posters announcing the great star Falco 65 year anniversary tour will hit the city. I spontaneously start humming “Der Kommissar”, I hope you will do as well tomorrow after having heard the song of the day !

Back at the hotel I decide to give Black Horse a make over. He really deserved it after the hard work today. Not sure if he liked it though.

Tomorrow the road will brings us to Melk. New adventures await….hopefully with some coffee along the way. Black, sugared and stirred.

Lessons learned :

1. The left is better then the right (nothing new here)
2. Taking food along is essential - otherwise the horse and rider will die.
3. There is a big white Berlin Wall on the right bank of the Danube.

Song of the day : Der Kommissar / Falco