//Day 48 /28-04-22 /Xylokastro-Mesolongi

Today was a combination of following coastline, mountains, flat roads, cycling the inland, small roads, smaller roads, national road, some traffic, no traffic, tiny villages, big cities, good roads, bad roads, asphalt, gravel, climbing and descending….I would have said that  the weather was the only constant but also the weather changed during the day. From the morning till around 14.30 it was a clear sky, sunny and around 28 degrees, After 14.30 clouds appear and the temperature dropped a couple of degrees.

Until Patras I followed mainly the coastline, cycling parallel to the highway. The Eurovelo designers had done  their best for the route to avoid as much as possible bigger and busy roads. I often had the impression there was no activities in the places I passed but that was mainly due that I was send over backstreets.

I passed 3 other touring cyclists but besides a polite wave no further social interaction originated… 

In Patras the Poloponessus is connected by the fantastic Rio-Antirrio bridge, crossing the Gulf of Corinth. The bridge is 2380 meters long and openend in 2004. You can see the bridge from afar. Cycling over the bridge is although not possible and  ferries cross the Golf. Mainly to ferry over the cars who do not wanna pay the bridge and highway toll. 

After I arrived at the other side of the Golf I crossed the inland though the mountains to reach Mesolongi. Luckily my route went mainly though the valleys with some limited climbing. In the middle of nowhere I passed a Botanical Garden, not sure if it attracts a lot of visitors. It was quite warm to cycle, certainly when climbing , so I was not unhappy that clouds appear and the temperature dropped somewhat. It would not be for me to cycle here during summer….

Around 16.00 I arrived at the small city Mesolongi and checked-in my 26 euro vintage hotel called Liberty. The receptionist explained me that the hotel was build in the 70’s and had 135 rooms. The interiors has not changed and I need for a refresh but assume that the hotel is struggling to stay in existence.In the past it could survive on the local factories and commerces, but most of that is gone. Even then I assume that the hotel was out of proportion for the local market. I have slept worse in hotels costing  a multiple of 26 euro. Unfortunate the receptionist was somewhat reluctant for me to take photo’s. I will give a try tomorrow morning before I leave. Reception is only available from 9.00.

When unpacking I also noticed that a glass had fallen out of my glasses. I found an optician who fixed the problem for free. Great service. 

Tomorrow I continue to cycle to the north. The most logical route is to follow the coastline, which has the most sleeping options and is scenery-wise . There is one practical problem though : the Aktio-Preveza undersea tunnel. The tunnel (probably again) a technical marvel crosses the Ambracian gulf. Unfortunately cyclists are not allowed to use the tunnel and there is also no ferry service as an alternative. The alternative is to cycle around the Ambracian gulf which is around a 130 K detour. The detour is not such a a problem but there are very limited options for sleeping. In the past the tunnel services took bicycles through the tunnel via a car and trailer. But it’s not clear if this service is still in operation. On the internet some cyclist cycled around some took a taxi. I will probably go for the taxi option as well. I found a taxi service who will ride me though the tunnel for 30 euro’s. We’ll see tomorrow. 

Lessons learned :

• In the less touristy places (e.g. Mesolongi)  restaurants open not before 20.30.
• The seawater was still to cold to swim. 
• It’s seems the Greek grandfathers responsibility to push the pram.
• It’s almost May 1st. The day that a lot of campings will open their doors.
• You can have Tzaziki in a Greek pizzeria.

Song of the day : Don’t be angry - Mad about mountains