//Day 53 /03-05-22 /Fier-Tirana

I woke up from the rain pouring down at 6.30. I checked the forecast and the rain would reduce around 8.30. So I had plenty of time to get ready. In addition I fixed the puncture of my original inner tube so that in case I have another flat I have it readily available…I have now run out of “rustinekes”……

At 8.30 the rain had stopped. The rain would return later today. I started cycling. Fier was somewhat strange city. Yesterday I didn’t pay attention as it was already late and raining but this morning I noticed that the city center existed mainly out of big apartment blocks…I checked on internet if there was a local bikeshop but no shops to find. I asked some people on the street but the response rate was poor, maybe to was the language barrier, maybe most of them had a bad morning or maybe they didn’t care. 

After 3 days in Albania I have some mixed experiences and feelings. Some people are happy to see you and start waving, some look surly, even angry people managing tourist businesses are mostly friendly but I often feel that I’m regarded just as money source…I also had a couple of experiences that if you ask people for information or direction they just don’t care. 

The road would bring me to Tirana today. The first part I would follow the EV8 and somewhere in the middle of the day I had plotted a route via small roads to Tirana. I have booked a hotel for 2 nights and have arranged with a bikeshop to replace my bikechain (the one which was broken some days ago), the cassette and replace my breakpads….

Since yesterday I’m a little concerned to get new punctures….so I’m checking regularly the pressure of my tires, sometimes imagining Black Horse gets wobbly again…I know that eventually my “puncture-anxiety” will disappear but not today….I’m most of the time cycling over smaller roads, which are most of the time in bad condition. 

One of the things that intrigues me in Albania is the number of hotels. I understand that there are plenty hotels at the coast but big hotels can be found  everywhere,…even in small villages, in the middle of nowhere….Most of the time the parkings are empty but the hotel seems to be open….not sure what the business model is…There are also plenty of restaurants and bars but here I can imagine that they have local clientele.

Another Albanian thing is that they seem to be fond of Sans Soucci castle copies..The function of these buildings are not always clear. One was a wedding hall, the other 2 not sure…..All 3 of them where situated in the middle of nowhere….

Albanians also like their big cars. The bigger the better (Mercedes, Range Rover, BMW’s….). They also like to speed (if roads allow) and pull up….With gasoline at more then 2 euro/liter it would go for a more economical car and driving style…

Somewhere after lunchtime I started deviating from the Eurovelo route 8. I followed a small road, climbing lightly into the mountains. The views not to bad. In a small village the small road became an unpaved road….my puncture-anxiety kicked in higher gear which I overcome. What I did not overcome is that after 100 meter I had to stop cycling as clay was building up between my wheels so that cycling was not longer possible, I was on the Albanian sister of the Bulgarian mud road….The only option was to push  Black Horse back to civilisation. On my way to the path I had seen some men doing construction work, I asked them if they had a waterhose which I could use. They did. After cleaning up Blackhorse I returned to a bigger road and detoured the planned roads. Increasing my total distance with 15 K. 

When I came closer to Tirana the traffic increased. The road quality though stayed at the same poor level with the advantage that cars could not speed…Sometimes it rained slightly but nothing to bad. I will talk more about Tirana tomorrow  but when you enter Tirana the first thing you will notice is the skyline ;  dominated by giant buildings,  some under construction….a couple of them already finished. Big modern streets. A lot of traffic. I have planned 2 nights in Tirana, tomorrow and the day after it will be a sunny periode before it will start raining again…so in doubt to enjoy an extra day of sun in Tirana or cycling. I will decide tomorrow. 

I found my hotel (excellent location and value with very helpful receptionist). Checked in and cycled Black Horse to the bikeshop (again friendly reception)…I did a short walk black to my hotel and chilled as it started raining again. Tomorrow I will have plenty of time to visit the city. 

In the evening I had kebabs in a Greek souvlaki restaurant. The music and ambiance was better then the food. 

Lessons learned :

• Better to be sans soucci.
• Rain is has a direct impact on my photo production 

Song of today : Dyomisi - Stamatis Gonidis