//Day 58 /8-05-22 /Virpazar-Kotor

I was awake at 6.00….breakfast was not until 7.30. I spend some time reading and looking at possible routes for the next days. I had a Montenegrin breakfast existing out of cheese, ham and “fritters”, what we call in Belgium : “oliebollen”…I was joined at my breakfast table by two Swiss guy’s, both cycling although not together.One was from Bern, the other from Zurich, both heading North as myself and also planning today to cycle to Kotor. 

Today it would be a climbing day with some smaller hills and one mountain of 1100 meters. I did not wait untill the Swiss were ready with their breakfast. I packed Black Horse and hit the road and first climb from 20 to 450 meters. All day the scenery was just fantastic. In the beginning I cycled around a part of Lake Skader, later I would be surrounded by the mountains of the natural park Lovcen. Only small roads, sometimes a couple of houses. The first 25 K smaller hills of around 400 meters in height.

After 25 K I arrived at small village and descended again to an elevation of 2 meters before starting the climb to 1100 meters. The next 30 K it would be mainly climbing with some small descents. I head dreaded the climb but eventually it went very well, cycling the complete climb in eco mode, with an average climb rate of around 5-6 %. Th road was perfect. I passed some snakes who were sunbathing but sliding away when I approached. The few people passing in cars honking encouragement. 

On the climbing route I crossed the mountain town Centinje, the former royal capital of Montenegro and currently the official residence of the president of Montenegro. Today it was Sunday-comatose. Some bars open but everything else closed. I found an open Burek stall though and was bake to secure lunch. After Centinje I started at the last 15 K to climb…

After Centinje the small road was replaced by a bigger road. Perfect asphalt and almost no traffic, except for some touring cars heading for Kotor. Soon I arrived at the “first” top of the mountain…After that top there was a sort of valley/plateau which I needed to descent and cross for  some kilometers to climb again maybe 150 meters to finally reach the “second” top….I had made  it ! From now on it would be a descent of around 25 K to arrive at Kotor. As mentioned yesterday the descent is a very populair road with around 25 hairpins…A very small road but not to much traffic, mainly touring cars….The view on the fjord/bay of Kotor is just stunning. At the moment I descended a cruise ship just entered the Fjord…..

A lot of tourists in Kotor. Not suprisingly as the small fortified town is really beautiful. Small streets, old buildings,….but also a lot of tourists and everything what comes with mass tourism : shops with china made stuff, restaurants fronted by people who try to lure you in, Ice cream at 2,5 euro per scoop,…..The cruise ship was just mooring. In 2017, 529 cruise ships with around 600.000 passengers….My plan was to stay on a camping but after calling the camping It seemed to be closed. I found some other campings which were open but none of them had a shop or restaurant. As it was Sunday all shops were closed so it was also not possible to take some food with me. Eventually I settled for a nice and affordable apartment in the old town. I showered and visited Kotor and became one of 1.8 million yearly visitors….I must say that the old town is really nice……I strolled the small streets , walked the ramparts, had a beer and an icecream, average tourist behaviour…..

In the evening I had a pizza dinner on nice terrace. With most of the tourist gone the atmosphere in Kotor was relaxed and pleasant. Tomorrow I will head for another main tourist attraction : Dubrovnik. One of the biggest Croatian tourist attraction. Since the city has been used as inspiration for the Game of Thrones series attracting more tourist then before. I will also leave Montenegro. Although I only spend 3 days in Montenegro, I may have cycled  maybe through the most beautiful part of my TBBCA route. I would certainly recommend to visit Montenegro I you like cruising through beautiful  scenery (car, motorbike,…) and meet friendly people. 

The next days I will spend in Croatia. I do not have a defined route yet. My puncture-saving Swiss couple recommended to cycle the Croatian islands. The weather will be improving the next days with a lot of sun as from Tuesday. Maybe that dip in the sea…..

Lessons learned : 

• Climbing 1100 meters, piece of cake.
• The cruise ships blow their horn to inform the cattle that the floating barn will be leaving.

Song of the day : Harness the wind - Galexico