//Day 13 /24-03-22 /Vrsac-Belgrade

I slept as a rose. Until the birds wake me around 5.15. As I fell a asleep around 20.00 I had a solid 9 hours of sleep. My inflatable matras was soft, my sleeping bag kept me warm and my pillow wel did what a pillow should do assure my head was comfortable.

The birds tweeted away, the sun slowly rose from behind the hills and warmed my tent. Time to get up. I made coffee, prepared a bread with cheese and enjoyed the scenery. I could wake up every time like this. After my breakfast I started breaking up camp and called Aleksandar that I was ready to go. Last night he had send a text to ask if everything was fine and if I needed something, he also said that it was not a problem to call him early, which I think I did as it was around 7.00. 

Aleksandar had told me that he had a wife, no kids but a big dog of 60 Kilo which he brought with him this morning. I must say I was somewhat impressed. AMI, the dogs name, was unfortunately not the most social dog, she didn’t like very much strangers. Beautiful dog though. I said goodbye to the great Aleksandar who I wish all the best and want to thank him for his hospitality. 

I descended the hill and started pedalling towards Belgrade continuing the road I had been following since Timisoara. Same scenery, same volume of traffic, again every once in while passing a sleeping farmer village. Poor villages with poor, but friendly people. In every village you have at minimum 2 grocery shops. One more modern, linked to a chain, the other managed by women, often located at a crossroad. At the last type of shops often elderly people standing by making small talk to each other. 

So I reached Belgrade. 20 K before I connected with the EuroVelo 11. Not sure if it was a well placed middle finger of the Serbians to Europe or the idea that cycleways need to be uncyclable. The cycleway was mainly a non-existing, a 15K ride through a grass field . To get into the city I crossed the Danube over a bridge riding the small footpath which not gave a view to the Danube to my left but also below me through the many holes I had to circumvent not to lose a wheel….I finally crossed the bridge to face the Belgrade traffic to the busy center. Eventually I arrived at the apartment which I booked for two nights. I was friendly welcomed, able to securely store Black Horse and ride an elevator connected to the outside of the apartment before checking-in in a big appartemen and started the chores which come with travelling ; 

1. Wash clothing.
2. Clean bike.
3. Find a bike store to swap my chain - which in principle I can do myself but afraid to do if something goes wrong. 
4. Extra = the band of my Garmin watch broke - so get it repaired. 

After starting the wash machine I hit the city to find a bike shop who could swap my bike chain, which I found (will be done tomorrow) and a shop to find a new Garmin band, which I found, 5 K walking brought me to the Garmin dealer for Serbia and Romania after paying an average month Serbian income I gift a now watch band. 

In the evening I went for dinner (I’m typing this after I have finished my dinner). I found a local restaurant 100 meter from my  apartment which I had spotted already this afternoon. The food was great, salad, a sort of 30 cm long,  rolled cordon bleu (local speciality) , rice, bread and tartar sauce, a glass (or two) of wine for around 10 euro. Including waiters in white shirts, black aprons, distributing ashtrays in the smoke filled restaurant (since 2007 it is no longer allowed to smoke in Belgian restaurants). Smoking in Serbia is everywhere…..

Besides cigarettes, dogs are everywhere…..Today I met at least 5 growling dogs when cycling.I have a Dazer but until now I was not able to test it really, One I kicked on the head with my foot as he/she did not stop following me whilst growling. Before entering Belgrade a family had to shoe away their dogs growling at me. In Belgrade I noticed a lot of people walking dogs, not necessary small dogs, mostly unleashed and friendly.

Tomorrow I will take a long sleep, sightsee Belgrade and swap my bike chain. The day after I will star cycling the direction of the Black Sea.

Lessons learned :

• No need to set an alarm when sleeping in a tent. 
• To daze or not to daze. That’s the dog. 
• You have plastic spoons wrapped in paper. 
• Serbian men like to wear camouflage-styled clothing.

Song of today : Dog from hell - Thundermother