//Day 21 /01-04-22 /Suhaia-Rouse

The day promised to be walk in the park. Only 90 K to cover, flat and sunny. After a nutritious breakfast by my friendly host Gabriel I saddled Black Horse and hit the road to Rouse (or Ruse)  in Bulgaria. The fifth largest town in Bulgaria on the right bank of the Danube opposite to the Romania town Giurgiu. I opted for Rouse as based upon the city photographs and comments I found on the internet the town has quite some attractions ; A cathedrals besides other interesting sited, a nice central pedestrian area, bars and restaurants…All the things Giurgiu seemed to be missing. Tomorrow I will head again to Romania to spend the weekend in Bucharest. 

The scenery did not change compared to the previous days. Except maybe that the valley in which the Danube clearly visible. The Danube I only saw when crossing the border at Giurgiu. On the fields it’s ploughing and sowing season. As it is currently very dry this results in a lot of dust if the tractors are working near the road. Sometime the farmers are friendly enough to stop or ride away from the road to minimise dust. As it is so dry and there was quite some wind there were clouds of dust in the distance. The first 20 K I had a strong headwind to work against which so far for the walk in the park….Luckily I needed to head to the East after 20 and the headwind changed to a side wind to eventually change the last 30 K in a backwind allowing me to ride around 30K per hour. 

I stop on a regular basis a small village shop. To drink something but also to make some conversation. Often in a non-existing languages helped with signs and google translate. Today I had to chance to meet Dragos at such a shop. Firefighter, 21 year old and fluent in English. We had some interesting conversation on how it is to life in Romania, the cost of travelling.The conversation started when Dragos asked which German football team would be good to place a bet on (I  had to disappoint him as my knowledge on football is non-existent). Each village has minimal 1 betting office, often more or it is integrated in the village grocery shop. In the bigger cities casino’s are found. I can imagine that for people with no a lot of money the idea to win betting/gambling is probably appealing.  Dragos, although informed me that as a firefighter he was making relatively good money. 

The rest of the journey nothing special to report. Since a couple of days I actively ask people if it is ok to take their photograph. Mostly they are more then happy to pose. One moment I saw a woman walking in the street with a goose or big duck (anyway an  edible animal with wings).

I passed a small city with most of the industry ruins again, but with nice big central park. Some women where whitening the park fence and started happily waving to me. They started talking and talking, but unfortunately my Romanian has not sufficiently evolved the last couple of days to understand anything, except that they seemed to have fun and were happy to meet me. 

Eventually I reached the outskirts of Giurgiu where I could see the remains of the Verachim factory, which polluted the air in the region (both Romania and Bulgaria)  heavily from 1980 and 1991. Although the factory is now long closed Giurgiu remains a somber place.The ruins and for sure the polluted ground a silent reminder of human craziness and irresponsibility. I continued to the border without stopping. Passed the queue of waiting lorries to present myself at the Romanian border agents who  waved me through without any check. I crossed the small but long bridge over the Danube, full of lorries but no foot- or cycle path,  to arrive at the Bulgarian side to after a quick check of my ID to be waved through and to find a big, but not busy road into the city center via an industrial area. Eventually I was guided on a cycle path though a nice park following a line of soviet-style apartments right into the pedestrian heart of the city ; pedestrian street of around 5 K, lined with shops, bars, etc,..connecting one side of the city center with the other. 

After checking in I visited the Rouse, but no before finding something to eat as lunch time had already passed some hours. After eating a nice Bulgarian Burek in the Central Park I started my strolling around, which brought me to the Freedom square, the pantheon of National revival Heroes and some nice buildings. Rouse is called the little Vienna, but I think in that case it is a really little Vienna. The most interesting and building to visit I found to be the Orthodox Sveta Troitsa Cathedral, built partly beneath the ground. In order to enter one has to descent some 5 meter of stairs. The Cathedral is beautifully decorated and holds quite some icons. For a Cathedral the size (30 meter long - 15 meter broad) is rather small but the interior and atmosphere is great. If you are ever in neighbourhood well worth the detour.

I strolled further but headed back to the hotel around 17.00 as dark clouds were covering the sky. 

Weather until now today had been great :  sunny and warm ; 26 degrees indicated the pharmacy thermometer. The last 21 days I did not have any rain. The next days the weather will change. A couple of colder days with some rain in the afternoon. Tomorrow I will be heading to Bucharest, where I will stay the weekend. In the afternoon some rain is expected but by then I will be already in Bucharest…Sunday maybe some rain. Monday there is no more rain expected  and from Tuesday onwards again plus 20…probably still to cold to have a swim in the Black Sea in a couple of days…..

I made calls with the homefront and went for dinner. I’m know sitting in a Bulgarian restaurant with a DJ and keyboard player  blaring elevator type Bulgarian Balkan music. People at long tables, eating, drinking and smoking….Not bad for a Friday evening…..

Lesson learned : 

• Blaring Bulgarian Balkan elevator music after a while is not so bad - maybe the white wine helps.
• My starter - spicy / garlic fresh mushrooms were perfect.
• For people having a subscription to Apple TV - a new series will start this evening - Slow horses - based upon the great espionage novels written by Mick Herron - with Gary Oldman as Jackson Lamb - New Year has come early this year !  

 Song of the day : Bulgarian chicks - Balkan beat box