//Day 20/31-03-22 /Bechet-Suhaia

Day 20 (already).Today the road will bring us to Shuaia (not to be confused with Ushuaia), a small village in the middle of nowhere along the Danube. It was either staying in Shuaia, 120 K, or in Giurgi a town 80 K further. 200 K is to much for Black Horse….for me it would have been fine. 

After a great Romanian breakfast, I continued the road from yesterday. Same small farming villages, scenery, road and waving  friendly people. Another 2 day’s before I will arrive in Rouse a considerable city in Bulgaria. I’m looking forward to leave the countryside for some time. I started today, a somewhat morbid, counting game. Counting the number of road killed dogs…..I know. Since a couple of days I noticed that there are quite some roadkilled animals. Today I counted 12 roadkilled dogs (relatively recent). Cats and other animals (fox, birds, rabbit) I counted 19 roadkilled animals. The volume of (wild) dogs in Romania is very high. I think that every family has at least 1 dog. Mostly they ar eased to guard property. Often I see dogs on property that seems abandoned. Some times they are on property whit half ready houses (later more on the topic).

The biggest, and saddest place I passed was Corabia (not to be confused with Cordoba). Previous a small industrial city were all the factories are closed. I counted 4 big plants which have been closed some years. Soviet-style apartments  - most of them still occupied - flanking the derilict buildings. People hanging around with nothing to do.

As result it can not be suprise that people leave Romania for countries where there is work and a future.

Yesterday there was an  item on the VRT regarding  the Roma (Romanian/Bulgarian) beggar problem in Brussels : since COVID is more under control there has been a significant influx of Roma using  their children to beg. As far as I have seen,  Roma live  mostly outside the small villages in ruïnes, self constructed cottages…the means of transport is still cart and horse. They always see  hello but most people I meet warn me against the “Ziganes” as they steal and can not be trusted. I understand why Roma come to beg in the main European cities. They make more in one day begging then maybe 2 weeks working in Romania (There is no work).It’s clear  there is not  an (easy) solution for the Roma, nor on hot revive rural economy in general.

Besides the Roma the Non-Roma Romanians have left in mass the country. When  I cycled through the small villages, there are mostly only elderly people and women with children in the street. Old houses are alternated with semi-finished big houses build by Romanians working abroad. One house bigger then the other. Not clear what the plan is of these families ; returning to their villages after their pension ? The houses are often so big that they can house 5 families….In one town the house building peer pression was just to big for that small village. Giant houses lined one next to the other.

I continued my route to Shuaia. Continue to meet friendly people and empty fields. Somewhere in the distance there is the Danube. Increasing plastic waste. 

I have booked a room in a pension hosted by Nicole and Gabriel. I arrived early so decide to give Black Horse a clean-up. Afterwards I have brief power nap. Before dinner I have short stroll through the village. People are either sitting in front of their house or before the few small shops drinking a beer and talking which each other. I’m waved at , asked who I am and where I come from. In one small shop I want to buy some pretzels but not allowed to pay. I have a Tolstoy moment enjoying the simplicity of country life.

My hosts serve me a simple but nice dinner : Soup, Polenta with rice and meat in cabbage leaves, cake. A slivovitsj to top of. 

I’m a happy but somewhat tired man after 120 K cycling.One of the reasons of my happiness is that although rain was predicted I did not have any rain. Rain is predicted for tomorrow again but after 15.00. By that time I will be already in Rouse. Bulgaria. 

Lessons learned :

• A black flag at a house means someone has died recently.
• Simile good friendly to shop lady gives free pretzels.
• I need to use  my Fuji 56 lense more.

Song of today : Oh I long to feel your arms around me - Father John Misty